FAQ

General

COSC, or the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres, is a Swiss-based institute that tests Swiss-made mechanical or quartz movements for accuracy, a mechanical chronometer must fall within a tolerance of -4/+6 seconds a day, while a quartz version is accurate to a sublime +/- 10 seconds a year. It’s the job of the COSC to ensure that the movements it receives from brands around the world meet the tolerance requirements expected of a chronometer

 

Category: General

For the older models in general a full service should be done every 5-7 years depending on use. For the newer models Rolex suggest 10 year service intervals on all watches after July 2015.

Category: General

When your watch is serviced by Rolex, the watch is completely dismantled and all of its components are ultrasonically cleaned. Each individual component is closely examined and those that no longer meet Rolex’s functional and aesthetic specifications are replaced with genuine Rolex parts. The movement is carefully lubricated then electronically tested to guarantee its timing accuracy; the case and the metal bracelet are meticulously refinished to restore their lustre. Your Rolex then undergoes a series of rigorous technical tests and checks to guarantee its waterproofness, power reserve and precision. After a complete Rolex service, your watch is covered by a service guarantee.

Category: General

Rolex watches are in general a  good investment, but not every Rolex watch has the potential to be worth more than a new one simply because it is old. Certain model lines of Rolex watches are more passionately collected than others, and can have much greater chances of appreciating in value. Often Rolex not only holds its value but will also increase in price, but it is the vintage market where all of the record-breaking valuations occur. The production numbers of vintage Rolex watches are fixed and a lot less then nowadays, but the demand only increases.

Category: General

The quartz crisis (also known as the quartz revolution) is a term used in the watchmaking industry to refer to the economic crisis caused by the quartz watches in the 1970s and early 1980s, which largely replaced mechanical watches. It caused a decrease of the Swiss watchmaking industry, which chose to remain focused on traditional mechanical watches, while the majority of the world’s watch production shifted to Asian companies that embraced the new technology of battery powered watches that are mass produced and made them more affordable.

Category: General

A chronograph refers to watches with stopwatch functionality for example the Rolex Daytona that is used in the motorsport.

Category: General

There are two definitions of “sweep seconds”, which mean different things:

In the older days “sweep” second hand referred to a seconds hand that swept across the entire dial, because it was somewhat of a novelty compared to the more conventional (at the time) subdial-seconds.

In newer days, quartz watches came along, which advanced in one-second ticks. And so, many people just started re purposing the term “sweep seconds” to refer to the relatively smooth sweep that was typical of a mechanical watch that advances more than once per second.

Category: General

Swiss made is a label or marker used to indicate that a product was made or assembled in Switzerland.

A watch is considered Swiss, according to the Swiss law if:

  • its movement is Swiss and,
  • its movement is cased up in Switzerland and;
  • the manufacturer carries out the final inspection in Switzerland

A watch movement is considered Swiss if:

  • the movement has been assembled in Switzerland and,
  • the movement has been inspected by the manufacturer in Switzerland and;
  • the components of Swiss manufacture account for at least 50 percent of the total value, without taking into account the cost of assembly. From 1 January 2017, the law set the minimum at 60 percent.[6]
Category: General

Mechanical watches are powered by kinetic energy stored in the movement’s main spring which, as it becomes released and unwound.
The amount of time that the piece takes to release this energy to the rest of the movement that would be classified as the watch it’s power reserve. The power reserve of a mechanical watch these days is around 40 hours or so, give or take. It depends on the year, movement and condition.

Category: General

The water resistance of a Rolex is often measured in meters and tells how deep it can go underwater while keeping the case watertight.

30/50/100 meter –  swimming
200 meter –  scuba diving
300 meter – deep scuba diving
1,000 +  meters –  About 3/5 of a mile and is more water pressure than a human body can withstand

Category: General

It is possible, but we advice that the watch should be kept off during baths and showers because soap can decrease the gaskets’ surface tension and damage the seal.

Category: General

Yes this is possible, keep a few things in mind.

  • Check if  you have a waterproof Rolex model.
  • Check that the crown is properly tightened.
  • Regularly pressure check your watch to maintain its water resistance level.
  • Clean your watch after swim in salt or chlorinated water.
What about Jacuzzi or Sauna?
Avoid a jacuzzi or sauna because the heat can warp the gaskets which keep the water from getting in.
Category: General

“Has it ever been polished?” is a question people often ask.

If your are in the market for a vintage watch there only a handful completely factory fresh and unpolished Rolex watches out there. And it takes you a very long time to find one and if you find one you can pay a premium till 100{9c7f37c78d0428cda2145a6ffe5333476c25e854262b773cc5187daf4be10fbc} extra as you pay would for even the best polished examples out there. I thinks this is more a thing for real purists, musea, hardcore collectors or investment watches for in a save.

In general it’s important for a serious watch collector that a watch not has been badly polished or have been  overpolished. If you where a watch for 25 years even if you do that occasionaly, they pick up small scratches and little marks here and there. So if you see a 25 year old watch that is shiny then you can be pretty sure that it has been polished before.  This is not a bat thing, even Rolex polishes watches at there service.

There are few things that you need to be careful for:

Bad polishing or over polishing
The effect of over polishing is the general loss of sharp edges and crispness to the case. Whether done to deal with big marks that can’t be removed any other way or just through sheer carelessness and lack of skill, over polishing a watch will spoil it for ever and it’s effects are almost impossible to reverse.

Restored watch cases (Laser welded)
There are company’s who have utilized laser-welding technology in order to bring their beat-up watches back to factory-fresh condition.

How to check if a case has been overpolished ?

The easiest way to do this to get a book the often pictures with the best watches out there or look online for a picture of a unpolished example and compare it with the watch you want to buy.

Category: General

The cost will depend on the type of servicing required and the state of the watch. Before every service, the condition of your watch will be evaluated by a watchmaker and you will receive an estimate for your approval for the cost of the service procedure.

Category: General

A complete overhaul takes a minimum six weeks depending on the condition of your watch and the watchmakers workload.

Category: General
A Rolex watch can vary depending on the type of material used, such as gold, platinum, diamonds, rarity, and market demand. In some instances, due to market demand, a stainless steel watch might be more sought after than gold models, making the two different models cost nearly the same.
Category: General

In horology, “caliber” refers to the specific internal mechanism of a watch or clock, also known as a movement. Although the term originally was only used to refer to the size of a movement, it is now used to designate a specific model (although the same caliber can be used in many different watches or clocks). Different watch manufacturers tend to use their own identification system to number their calibers.

Category: General

Lume is a short term for the luminous phosphorescent glowing solution applied on watch dials. Through the year Rolex has used different materials to achieve this.

Material Period Dial
Radium early 1960s SWISS
Tritium 1998 T Swiss T or T Swiss T<25
Luminova 1998 – 2000 SWISS
Super Luminova 2000 – 2008 Swiss Made
Chromalight 2008 – now Swiss Made

Category: General

Rolex engraves or assigns a 4-6 digit model number to every watch type it produces. This number can be found engraved between the lugs on the side of the case above 12 o’clock. The model number can indicate the model type, bezel, and material of your watch. For example, the reference number 16234 can be broken out into three section, which is 162 | 3 | 4. The first, 162, indicates that this watch is a Datejust. The second, 3, indicates that the bezel is fluted. The third, 4, indicates that the watch material is Stainless w/ 18k White Gold.

ROLEX TYPE
Submariner (no date) 55 & 140
Submariner 16, 166 & 168
Sea Dweller 16 & 166
GMT Master 16, 65, 167
GMT Master II 167, 1167
Day-Date (President) 65, 66, 18, 180, 182 & 183
Datejust 16 & 162
Daytona Manual Wind 62
Daytona Cosmograph 165, 1165
Explorer II 165
Oyster Perpetual 10, 140, 142
Airking 55 & 140
Date 15 & 150
OysterquartzDatejust 170
Oysterquartz Day-Date 190
Yachtmaster 166, 686 & 696
Midsize Oyster Perp DJ 68, 682
Ladies Oyster Perpetual 67, 671, 672
Ladies Date 65, 69, 691 & 692
Ladies Datejust 65, 69, 691 & 692

 

BEZEL
Polished 0
Engine Turned 1
Engine Turned 2
Fluted 3
Hand-Crafted 4
Pyramid 5
Rotating Bezel 6

 

MATERIAL
Stainless 0
Yellow Gold Filled 1
White Gold Filled 2
Stainless & Yellow Gold 3
Stainless w/ 18k White Gold 4
Gold Shell 5
Platinum 6
14k Yellow Gold 7
18k Yellow Gold 8

Category: General

complication is described as any additional function the wristwatch performs beyond basic time telling (i.e. hour, minute and second). A common example of wristwatch complications are calendar models which display the day/date. Additional complications include chronograph models, whereas the watch performs like a basic “stop watch” (as described above). Other complications worth mentioning are: second time zone, moonphase and alarms.

Category: General

Homage
A watch that makes its best efforts to look exactly like another watch only made by a different manufacture.

Replica/Replica/Fake
Made in exact imitation of something valuable or important with the intention to deceive or defraud.

Frankenwatch
A put together watch with original parts mixed with replica or after-market/fake parts in/on it.

Category: General

Baselworld Watch and Jewellery Show is a trade show of the international watch and jewellery industry, organized each spring in the city of Basel, Switzerland, at Messe Basel.

It comprises about 2,100 exhibitors from over 45 countries, including the leading watch and jewellery brands, as well as companies specializing in precious gems. The show attracts over 94,000 visitors.

Category: General

How to use your watch ?

1.Take the watch in your hand not on your wrist. This is because you can bend or damage the crown tube or case of the watch.
2.Unscrew the crown.  To unscrew the crown turn it counter-clockwise until you feel it release. When it releases it will pop out slightly from the watch case
3.To wind your watch, use your thumb and index finger to slowly turn the crown clockwise a full rotation for  about 25 times. Do not worry about over winding your watch, Rolex watches are built to prevent this from happening.Don’t forget to screw the crown back into the watch.

1. Check if the crown is screwed into the case.
2. Use lukewarm water, ammonia free soap and old soft toothbrush to clean the bracelet.
3. Use a soft and clean cloth to clean the watch.

Note: Don’t clean a leather strap with water

You can remove light scratches with “Polywatch”.

How does it work ?

1.Apply PolyWatch to the watch crystal.
2.Polish the scratched areas for 2-3 minutes with great pressure at a right angle to the scratches, using a piece of cotton wool.
3.Finally, remove any remaining PolyWatch with a cloth.

Note: If you have deeper scratches on your plexiglass go to a watchmaker.

This is the part where set time of  your Rolex can get tricky. Depending on the age of your watch, you might have special instructions for adjusting the time/day/date of your watch.

Quickset vs. Non-Quickset
When it comes to watch movements, Rolex has always been a technical innovator. And in 1977, its 3035 movement was revolutionary. The new quickset function made setting the date on a watch easier than ever before.

How do you know whether your watch is quickset or not?
Newer Rolex watches have always  quickset. But depending on the vintage, you might have a non-quickset on your hands. You can find it out based on the model number.

No-Date Rolexes
1. Winding: Pull the crown out, turn clockwise to manually wind the watch
2. Set time: Pull the crown to the last notch. Twist the crown clockwise or counter-clockwise to adjust the hands.

Rolex Date/Datejust (Non-Quickset – Move 24 hours to change date)
1. Winding: Pull the crown out, turn clockwise to manually wind the watch
2. Date: Pull the crown out to the last notch. (The seconds hand will immediately stop).Turn the crown counter-clockwise until you hit the correct date. (This may take a while, because the date changes at 12:00)
3. Time: Leave the crown at the same notch. Twist the crown till the hand hands are in the right position.

Rolex Date/Datejust (Quickset Change day quickly)
1. Winding :Pull the crown out, turn clockwise to manually wind the watch
2. Date: Pull the crown out to the last notch. Twist the crown counter-clockwise (for a men’s watch) or clockwise (for a women’s watch) to adjust the date.
3. Time: Pull the crown out to the last notch and turn the crown upwards or downwards adjust the time.

Rolex Day-Date (Quickset – Move 24 hours to change day or date )
1. Winding: Pull the crown out, turn clockwise to manually wind the watch
2. Date:Leave the crown at the same notch. Pull the crown out to the last notch. If you turn the crown upwards, the day and date will change every 24 hours.
3. Day of the week:Leave the crown at the same notch. Turn the crown downwards / counter clockwise 24 hours, in order for the day to go one day back. This way the day can be set separately.
4. Time: Leave the crown at the same notch and turn the crown upwards or downwards adjust the time.

Rolex Day-Date (Single Quickset – Change day quickly)
1. Winding: Pull the crown out, turn clockwise to manually wind the watch
2. Date: Pull the crown out to the first notch and turn the crown counter-clockwise to change the date.
3. Day of the week: Pull the crown out to last first notch and turn clockwise to set the day. (This may take a while, because the day changes at 12:00)
4. Time: Leave the crown at the same notch and turn the crown counter-clockwise to change the time.

Rolex Day-Date (Double Quickset – Change day and date quickly)
1. Winding: Pull the crown out, turn clockwise to manually wind the watch
2. Date: Pull the crown out to the first notch and turn the crown clockwise to set the date.
3. Day of the week:Leave the crown at the same notch and turn the crown counter-clockwise to change the day of the week.
4. Time: Pull the crown out to the last notch and turn clockwise or counter-clockwise to set the time

1.Wear your watch beside your wrist bone
Make sure that the face sits right next to the bone on the outside of the wrist (the ulna).

2.Decide on which wrist you want to wear your watch 
You typically wear your watch on the hand opposite your dominant hand.

3.Wear a band that fits properly
A watch should appear comfortable, natural, and certainly not sloppy. As a general rule, you should be able to fit a finger snugly between your wrist and the watch band.

4. Don’t wear a watch with a face that is too big for your hand.

When travelling with a Rolex watch it can be handy to carry your watch in a watchpouch or watch roll.
See watchpouch.nl for handmade, handstitched leather bespoke watchpouches, watch rolls and more.

Rolex info

Vintage Rolex watches have the serial number engraved between the 6:00 lugs. You have to remove the bracelet to see the serial number from the watch.

Mondern Rolex watches have the serial number at the 6:00 position along the inner bezel under the crystal. This style is often referred to as the “inner engraving” or “rehaut engraving”.

The serial number is also listed on the Rolex certificate of your watch.

Category: Rolex info

The reference or model number of a Rolex is located between the lugs at the 12′ position.
You have to remove the bracelet to see the model number from the watch. The model or reference number  is also listed on the Rolex certificate of your watch.

Category: Rolex info

Rolex watches are devided into 7 general sizes:

  • Mens large size 43/44 mm
  • Sports size 40/42 mm
  • Gents size 36 mm
  • Unisex size 34 mm
  • Mid size 31 mm
  • Ladies regular size 26/29 mm
  • Ladies baby size 24/25 mm
Category: Rolex info

Stainless steel, (904L steel)
Gold (yellow, white and Everose)
Platinum
Rolesor (a combination of steel and gold)
Precious stones
Cerachrom (for bezels)

Category: Rolex info

The Mondani family is a worldwide leading publishing house in the field of collecting wristwatches.
They have books of the most Rolex models, see our webshop for the available books.

Category: Rolex info
  • Manual Wind
    Manual wind watches need to be wound on a daily basis in order to run and accurately display time.
  • Automatic or Self-Winding
    The is the most common type of movement found in Rolex watches today. This movement involves a rotor which transfers power to the mainspring and keeps the watch powered by the kinetic motion of your wrist while you wear it. If the Rolex is worn daily, the rotor should produce enough power for the watch to run without manual winding needed.
  • Quartz – The quartz movement is the most precise out of the 3 types of movements. Powered by a battery and using a quartz crystal, this is a much more accurate method of time keeping. This movement was introduced in the 1970s.
Category: Rolex info

Rolex invented the first truly waterproof case, which he called the “Oyster,” a name Hans Wilsdorf came up with after trying to pry open a really stubborn oyster shell.

The “Perpetual” part came in 1933, when Rolex rolled out the first reliable self-winding watch, and called it the Oyster Perpetual. Perpetual, meaning it goes on and on and on…

“Oyster” means waterproof.
“Perpetual” means it self winding or automatic.

Category: Rolex info

Modern watches:
Nowadays everybody knows that you should  keep box and papers. There is only a small  added value to modern watches because when you have the the box and papers. But it’s are a lot easier to sell a watch with original box and papers.

Vintage watches.
Back in the days it was very common to throw away box and papers besides that the where not made to last long. For a collector it’s very cool have all original “full set”,  but you can pay upto 25{9c7f37c78d0428cda2145a6ffe5333476c25e854262b773cc5187daf4be10fbc} extra for the box and papers. You cant wear box and papers and the box papers don’t say anything about the originality of the watch.

Decide for yourself it’s worth the premium for you, but keep in mind:

  • There are fake box papers in circulation.
  • There are original blank papers in circulation that can be filled in to “create” a full set.
Category: Rolex info

1926     Oyster Case
1927     Serial Number On Oyster Case
1931     Oyster Perpetual
1938     Bubble Back
1938     Oyster Bracelet
1945     Jubilee Bracelet
1945     Datejust
1950     Mercedes Hand
1953     Submariner 100m / 330ft
1953     Turn-O-Graph
1953     Explorer
1954     GMT-Master
1954     Submariner 200m / 660ft
1954     Cyclop On Crystal
1954     Ladys Oyster Perpetual
1956     Day-Date
1956     President Bracelet
1956     Milgauss
1957     Lady Datejust
1959     Submariner gets Crown Guards and 40mm Case
1960     Deep Sea Special (Diving Record 10.916 m)
1961     Oyster Cosmograph
1963     Cosmograph Daytona
1967     Sea-Dweller
1969     Submariner Date
1969     Submariner Date 18 k YG
1971     Explorer II
1972     Hacking Movement
1974     Sapphire Crystal
1976     Oysterquartz
1977     Quick Set Date Feature
1978     Sea-Dweller 4000
1979     Submariner 300m / 1000ft with Sapphire Crystal
1983     GMT-Master II
1983     Submariner Rolesor
1985     904 L Steel
1985     Explorer II (Ref. 16550)
1985     GMT II (Ref. 16760)
1988     Cosmograph Daytona (Zenith Movement)
1988     Explorer II (Ref. 16570)
1988     GMT II (Ref. 16710)
1992     Yacht-Master
1992     Pearlmaster
1994     Yacht-Master Lady & Medium
2000     Cosmograph Daytona With Inhouse Movement
2001     Laser Etched Hologram In Crystal
2003     “Green” Submariner Date
2004     Serial Number On The Inner Bezel
2004     New TOG
2004     New Datejust Case
2005     GMT-Master YG (Ref. 116718)
2005     Parachrom Hairspring
2006     GMT-Master Rolesor (Ref. 116713)
2007     GMT-Master SS (Ref. 116710) and WG (Ref. 116759)
2007     Caliber 3131
2007     Caliber 4160
2007     Yacht-Master II  YG & WG
2007     Milgauss (Ref. 116400)
2007     Air-King (Ref. 114200)
2007     Submariner with COSC
2008     Sea-Dweller Deepsea
2008     Day-Date II
2008     Oyster Perpetual 36mm
2008     RG Daytona
2008     Caliber 3156
2008     Submariner Date New Case YG
2009     Datejust II Rolesor & SS
2009     Submariner Date New Case Rolesor
2010     Explorer 39mm (Ref. 214270)
2010     Submariner Date (Ref. 116610)
2011     Explorer II 42mm (Ref. 216570)
2011     Yacht-Master II Rolesor
2011     RG Black Bezel Datona
2011     Caliber 3187
2012     Sky-Dweller
2012     Caliber 9001
2012     Submariner (Ref. 114060)
2012     Deepsea Challenge Prototype
2013     SS GMT-Master blue/black bezel
2013     SS Yacht-Machster II
2013     Platin Daytona
2014     New Cellini Line (Date, Time, Dual Time)
2014     Ceramic Bezel “Pepsi” for GMT (Ref. 116719)
2014     Sea-Dweller 4000 (Ref. 116600)
2014     Blue dial for Milgauss GV
2014     Syloxi Hairspring
2014     Sea-Dweller Deepsea D-Blue Dial Edition
2015     Day-Date 40 mm
2015     OP 39 mm
2015     Yacht-Master Everose 40 & 37 mm with Oysterflex Bracelet
2015     Caliber 3255
2015     Caliber 3235
2015     The green seal coupled with a five-year guarantee (July)
2016     SS Daytona Cerachrom bezel (Ref. 116500)
2016     Air-King 40 mm (Ref. 116900)
2016     Datejust 41 Rolesor (YG & RG) with Cal. 3235
2016     Jubildee bracelet for Datejust 41 Rolesor
2016     Yacht-Master 40 Everose Rolesor (Ref. 116621)
2016     Yacht-Master 37 SS (Ref. 268622)
2017     Sea-Dweller 43mm (Ref. 126600)
2017     Daytona 18 ct with Oyterflex bracelet
2017     Sky-Dweller yellow and white Rolesor
2017     Datejust 41 Steel and white Rolesor
2017     Yacht-Master Everose gold with gem-set bezel
2017     Cellini Moonphase
2018     GMT-Master “Pepsi” SS 126710, Cal. 3285
2018     GMT-Master RG (Ref. 126715CHNR)
2018     GMT-Master SS/RG (Ref. 126711CHNR)
2018     “Rainbow” Daytona RG (Ref. 116595RBOW)
2018     New Movements for Datejust 31 & 36
2018     Deepsea 126660

Category: Rolex info

 

Category: Rolex info

The history of Rolex is inextricably linked to the visionary spirit of Hans Wilsdorf, its founder. In 1905, at the age of 24, Hans Wilsdorf founded a company in London specialising in the distribution of timepieces. He began to dream of a watch worn on the wrist. Wristwatches were not very precise at the time, but Hans Wilsdorf foresaw that they could become not only elegant, but also reliable. To convince the public of the reliability of his resolutely innovative timepieces, he equipped them with small, very precise movements manufactured by a Swiss watchmaking company in Bienne.

Category: Rolex info

Hans Wilsdorf wanted his watches to bear a name that was short, easy to say and remember in any language, and which looked good on watch movements and dials. He said, “I tried combining the letters of the alphabet in every possible way. This gave me some hundred names, but none of them felt quite right. One morning, while riding on the upper deck of a horse-drawn omnibus along Cheapside in the City of London, a genie whispered ‘Rolex’ in my ear.”

Category: Rolex info

The “day wheel” on the Day-Date is available in the following 26 languages: English, German, Arabic, Chinese, Danish, Spanish, Basque, Catalan, Ethiopian, Finnish, French, Greek, Hebrew, Dutch, Indonesian, Italian, Japanese, Latin, Moroccan, Norwegian, Farsi, Polish, Portuguese, Russian, Swedish and Turkish.

Category: Rolex info

Rolex doesn’t release exact numbers, however, according to industry estimates and considering the number of Chronometer certificates issued to Rolex over the past few years, it’s safe to assume that Rolex produces somewhere between 700,000 to 800,000 watches annually. On the other hand, it is believed that counterfeiters produce over ten times that number!

Category: Rolex info

It has been estimated that fewer than 25,000 Oysterquartz watches were made, which makes it one of the rarest regular production watches Rolex has ever produced. (To put the number 25,000 in perspective, remember that Rolex made almost one million watches in 2004 and the Oysterquartz was in production for nearly 25 years.)

Category: Rolex info

Some Oysterquartz owners have reported batteries lasting as long as five years. Two to three years seems to be about the average life of the battery, however.  Rolex USA replaces Oysterquartz batteries free of charge, and this service includes new gaskets and pressure testing.

Category: Rolex info

Paul Newman
The so-called Daytona “Paul Newman” models are a group of vintage manual-wound Daytona watches that include specific Art Deco styled dials.

Jean-Claude Killy
“Killy” Rolex watches refer to a group of vintage Rolex triple calendar Dato-Compax chronographs.

James Cameron
In 2012, James Cameron navigated the Deepsea Challenger submersible to the deepest part of the Mariana Trench. This is the first human to reach the 6.8-mile-deep underwater valley solo. As a tribute the historic feat, Rolex created a special edition of the Deepsea professional diver’s watch.

Steve McQueen
In watch collection circles, the Rolex “Steve McQueen” refers to the Explorer II ref. 1655, but there seems to be no photographic evidence to support that claim. On the other hand, the celebrity was frequently photographed wearing a Submariner ref. 5512 as his daily watch

Category: Rolex info

Rolex models

  • Hulk – 116610 – SS green dial and green ceramic bezel submariner
  • Papa Smurf – 116618 – white gold submariner with the powder blue dial and bezel
  • Batman – 116710 – GMT II with the black and blue bi-color ceramic bezel
  • Kermit – 16610lv –original green bezel 50th anniversary submariner
  • Fat lady– 16760 – GMT master in red and black bezel only – nicknamed because the case is 1mm larger than its counterparts
  • Pussy galore – 6542 – GMT named for the bond girl who wore this watch during the 007 movie “Goldfinger”
  • James Bond – submariner oyster perpetual – used as a “knuckle duster” weapon in the original books – seen (models changed) in several early 007 movies and worn by Ian Flemming
  • Paul Newman – 6239 – manual wind Daytona with exotic dial – white dial with black sub dials – in the movie “winning”
  • Thunderbird – original turn-o-graph bezel – named for the Air Force Acrobatic Team
  • Steve Mcqueen – explorer II with the orange gmt hand (original style) seen on actors wrist in the movie “Le Mans”
Category: Rolex models

Rolex movement

Rolex Caliber 3135

  • Jewels: 31 Jewels.
  • Specifications: Automatic mechanical movement. Duo-directional rotor. Date display. Perpetual rotor.
  • Power reserve: 48 hours.
  • Introduced: 1988.
  • Frequency: 28.800 BPH
  • Watches with this caliber: Submariner, Datejust.

The Rolex Caliber 3135 was released in 1988 and improved the durability and the reliability of Rolex’s watches. Maybe most importantly is that the new caliber made the watches easier to service.

Rolex Caliber 2231

  • Jewels: 31.
  • Specifications: Automatic mechanical movement. Duo-directional rotor. Perpetual rotor. Accuracy of -2/-2 seconds per day.
  • Power reserve: 48 hours.
  • Frequency: 28.800 BPH.

Rolex Caliber 2236

  • Jewels: 31.
  • Specifications: Automatic mechanical movement. bi-directional rotor. Date display. Perpetual rotor.
  • Power reserve: 55 hours.
  • Introduced: 2015.
  • Frequency: 28.800 BPH.

Caliber Caliber 3130

  • Jewels: 31.
  • Specifications: Automatic mechanical movement. Duo-directional perpetual rotor. Accuracy of -2/+2 seconds per day.
  • Power reserve: 48 hours.
  • Frequency: 28.800 BPH.
  • Introduced: 2001.
  •  Watches with this caliber: Rolex Explorer and Datejust.

The Rolex Caliber 3130 movement is the fourth generation of the Rolex Calibre 300 family. The movement features a  Chronergy escapement as well as optimized and improved gears and lubricants which allows for a better power reserve. With the new generation 3000 Calibers, Rolex has claimed that 90{9c7f37c78d0428cda2145a6ffe5333476c25e854262b773cc5187daf4be10fbc} of the components have been changed from the previous generations.

The Rolex Caliber 3130 is not very different from the immediate predecessor. The difference between the 3130 and the 3135 movement is that the 3130 watch movement does not have a date function in any of the watch models that use it. The movement is used in Air King, some Oyster Perpetual, Explorer, and Submariner watch models.

Rolex Caliber 3255

  • Jewels: 31.
  • Specifications: Automatic mechanical movement. Duo-directional perpetual rotor. Accuracy of -2/+2 seconds per day. 15{9c7f37c78d0428cda2145a6ffe5333476c25e854262b773cc5187daf4be10fbc} higher efficiency with “Chronergy”. Date and weeks display.
  • Power reserve: 70 hours.
  • Introduced: 2015.
  • Frequency: 28.800 BPH.
  •  Watches with this caliber: Rolex Day-date.

Rolex Caliber 3235

  • Jewels: 31.
  • Specifications: Automatic mechanical movement. Duo-directional Perpetual rotor. Date display. 15{9c7f37c78d0428cda2145a6ffe5333476c25e854262b773cc5187daf4be10fbc} higher efficiency with Chronergy.
  • Power reserve: 70 hours.
  • Frequency: 28.800 BPH.
  • Introduced: 2016.
  •  Watches with this caliber: Rolex Datejust, Sea-Dweller, Deepsea Sea-Dweller.

Rolex Caliber 3285

  • Jewels: 31.
  • Specifications: Automatic mechanical movement. Duo-directional perpetual rotor. GMT function. Date display.
  • Power reserve: 70 hours.
  • Introduced: 2018.
  • Frequency: 28.800 BPH.
  •  Watches with this caliber: Rolex GMT-Master II.

Rolex Caliber 4160

  • Jewels: 42.
  • Specifications: Automatic mechanical movement. Bi-directional perpetual rotor. Regatta Timer. 360 components. Chronograph.
  • Power reserve: 72 hours.
  • Introduced: 2007.
  • Frequency: 28.800 BPH.
  •  Watches with this caliber: Rolex Yacht-Master II.
  • Year Introduced: 2007.

Rolex Caliber 4161

  • Jewels: 72.
  • Specifications: Chronograph. Duo-directional perpetual rotor.
  • Power reserve: 72 hours.
  • Introduced: 2013.
  • Frequency: 28.800 BPH.
  •  Watches with this caliber: Rolex Yacht-Master II.

Rolex Caliber 1161

  • Jewels: 26.
  • Specifications: No-date.
  • Power reserve: N/A.
  • Frequency: 18.800 BPH.
  • Introduced: 1964.

Rolex Caliber 1166

  • Jewels: 26.
  • Specifications: Date.
  • Power reserve: 42 hours.
  • Frequency: 18.800 BPH.
  • Introduced: 1967.

Rolex Caliber 1520

  • Jewels: 27 jewels.
  • Specifications: No-date.
  • Power reserve: 42 hours.
  • Introduced: 1963.
  • Frequency: 19.800 VPH.
  •  Watches with this caliber: Air-King.

Rolex Caliber 1560

  • Jewels: 25.
  • Specifications: No-date.
  • Introduced: 1959
  • Power Reserve: 42 Hours
  • Frequency: 18.800 BPH.
  •  Watches with this caliber: Oyster-Perpetual, Explorer, Submariner.

Rolex Caliber 3180

  • Jewels: 31.
  • Specifications: Automatic mechanical movement. Duo-directional perpetual rotor. Paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring. Second time zone with day/night indicator.
  • Introduced: 1959
  • Power Reserve: 48 hours
  • Frequency: 28.800 BPH.

Rolex Caliber 3165

  • Jewels: 31.
  • Specifications: Automatic mechanical movement. Perpetual Duo-directional rotor. Paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring. Date function.
  • Power Reserve: 48 hours
  • Frequency: 28.800 BPH.

Rolex Caliber 1565

  • Jewels: 26.
  • Specifications: Date function.
  • Power reserve: 42 hours.
  • Introduced: 1959.
  • Frequency: 18.000 BPH.
  •  Watches with this caliber: Oyster-Perpetual Date.

Rolex Caliber 1570

  • Jewels: 26.
  • Specifications: No date.
  • Power reserve: 42 hours.
  • Introduced: 1965.
  • Frequency: 19.800 BPH.
  •  Watches with this caliber: Oyster Perpetual, Submariner, Explorer.

Rolex Caliber 1575

  • Jewels: 25.
  • Specifications: Date. Fixed GMT hand.
  • Power reserve: 48 hours.
  • Introduced: 1965.
  • Frequency: 19.800 BPH.
  •  Watches with this caliber: GMT-Master II & Explorer II.
  • Year Introduced: 1965.
  • Power Reserve: 42 Hours.

Rolex Caliber 1580

  • Jewels: 26.
  • Specifications: No date. movement made for Milgauss.
  • Power reserve: 50 hours.
  • Introduced: 1963.
  • Frequency: 19.800 BPH.

Rolex Caliber 1602

  • Jewels: 20.
  • Specifications: No date. Manual wounded.
  • Power reserve: N/A.
  • Introduced: N/A.

Rolex Caliber 2030

  • Jewels: 28.
  • Specifications: No date.
  • Power reserve: 42 hours.
  • Introduced: 1970.
  •  Watches with this caliber: Oyster-Perpetual and Datejust.

Rolex Caliber 2035

  • Jewels: 28.
  • Specifications: Self-wind. Sweep-seconds. Progress-calendar. Shock protecting.
  • Power reserve: 42 hours.
  • Introduced: 1970.
  •  Watches with this caliber: Rolex Date.

Rolex Caliber 2130

  • Jewels: 29.
  • Specifications: No date.
  • Power reserve: 42 hours.
  • Introduced: 1983.
  •  Watches with this caliber: Rolex Oyster-Perpetual.

Rolex Caliber 2135

  • Jewels: 29.
  • Specifications: Date.
  • Power reserve: 42 hours.
  • Introduced: 1983.
  • Frequency: 18.000 BPH.
  •  Watches with this caliber: Rolex Datejust.

Rolex Caliber 2230

  • Jewels: 31.
  • Specifications: No date.
  • Power reserve: 42 hours.
  • Introduced: 1999.
  •  Watches with this caliber: Oyster-Perpetual.

Rolex Caliber 2235

  • Jewels: 31.
  • Specifications: Date.
  • Power reserve: 42 hours.
  • Introduced: 1999.

Rolex Caliber 3000

  • Jewels: 27.
  • Specifications: No date.
  • Power reserve: 42 hours.
  • Introduced: 1990.
  • Watches with this caliber: Air-King.

Rolex Caliber 3035

  • Jewels: 27 jewels.
  • Specifications: Date. Microstella adjustment. Breguet balance spring.
  • Power reserve: 42 hours.
  • Introduced: 1997.
  •  Watches with this caliber: Rolex Datejust.

Rolex Caliber 3055

  • Jewels: 27.
  • Specifications: Day/date.
  • Power reserve: 42 hours.
  • Introduced: 1977.
  •  Watches with this caliber: Rolex Day-Date.

Rolex Caliber 3075

  • Jewels: 27.
  • Specifications: Fixed GMT hand.
  • Power reserve: 42 hours.
  • Introduced: 1981.
  •  Watches with this caliber: Rolex GMT-Master II and Explorer II.

Rolex Caliber 3085

  • Jewels: 27.
  • Specifications: GMT hand.
  • Power reserve: 42 hours.
  • Introduced: 1977.
  •  Watches with this caliber: Rolex GMT-Master II.

Rolex Caliber 3130

  • Jewels: 31.
  • Specifications: No date,Breguet overcoil. Microstella regulating system. Free-sprung balance.
  • Power reserve: 42 hours.
  • Introduced: 2001.
  • Watches with this caliber: Oyster-Perpetual.

Rolex Caliber 3131

  • Jewels: 31.
  • Specifications: No date. Parachrom blue hairspring. Antimagnetic.
  • Power reserve: 50 hours.
  • Introduced: 2007.
  •  Watches with this caliber: Rolex Milgauss, Air-King 40.

Rolex Caliber 3132

  • Jewels: 31.
  • Specifications: Automatic mechanical movement, Perpetual duo-directional rotor. No date. Parachro, Breguet overcoil balance spring. Paraflex shocks. Microstella regulating system
  • Power reserve: 48 hours.
  • Introduced:
  • Frequency: 28.800 BPH.
  •  Watches with this caliber: Rolex Oyster-Perpetual- Rolex Explorer 214270.

Rolex Caliber 3135

  • Jewels: 31.
  • Specifications: Date. Microstella regulating system. Breguet overcoil balance spring. Shock absorption. Certified Chronometer.
  • Power reserve: 50 hours.
  • Introduced: 1988.
  •  Watches with this caliber: Date, Datejust, Submariner.

Rolex Caliber 3155

  • Jewels: 31 jewels.
  • Specifications: Day/date. Certified Chronometer.
  • Power reserve: 48 hours.
  • Introduced: 1988.
  •  Watches with this caliber: Oyster Perpetual Date, Datejust, Submariner, Sea-Dweller, Yacht-Master,  Sea-Dweller Deepsea.

Rolex Caliber 3156

  • Jewels: 31.
  • Specifications: Day/date. Parachrom blue hairspring. Certified Chronometer. Paraflex shock absorber.
  • Power reserve: 48 hours.
  • Introduced: 2008.
  •  Watches with this caliber: Rolex Day-Date II.

Rolex Caliber 3175

  • Jewels: 31.
  • Specifications: GMT hand.
  • Power reserve: 48 hours.
  • Introduced: 1988.
  •  Watches with this caliber: Rolex GMT-Master 16700.

Rolex Caliber 3185

  • Jewels: 31.
  • Specifications: GMT hand. COSC certified. Breguet overcoil hairspring.
  • Power reserve: 50 hours.
  • Introduced: 1988.

Rolex Caliber 3186

  • Jewels: 31.
  • Specifications: GMT function. Multidirectional perpetual rotor. Date display. Chronometer certified. Parachrom blue hairspring. Free.spring balance.
  • Power reserve: 48 hours.
  • Introduced: 2005.
  • Frequency: 28.800 BPH.
  •  Watches with this caliber: GMT-Master II.

Rolex Caliber 3187

  • Jewels: 31.
  • Specifications: Automatic mechanical movement. GMT function. Duo-directional perpetual rotor. Paramagnetic Parachrom blue hairspring. Paraflex shock absorbers. Instantaneous date
  • Power reserve: 48 hours.
  • Introduced: 2011.
  •  Watches with this caliber: Rolex Explorer II 216570.

Rolex Caliber 4030

  • Jewels: 31.
  • Specifications: Chronograph. Vertical clutch. Column wheel.
  • Power reserve: 42 hours.
  • Introduced: 1989.
  • Frequency: 28.8000.
  •  Watches with this caliber: Rolex Daytona 1991.

Rolex Caliber 4130

  • Jewels: 44.
  • Specifications: Mechanical chronograph. Perpetual duo.directional rotor. Paramagnetic Parachrom blue hairspring. Column wheel. Vertical clutch.
  • Power reserve: 72 hours.
  • Introduced: 2000.
  • Frequency: 28.800 BPH.
  •  Watches with this caliber: Rolex Daytona.

Rolex Caliber 5035

  • Jewels: 11.
  • Specifications: Thermal compensated Quartz.
  • Power reserve: Quartz.
  • Introduced: 1977.
  • Frequency: 32,768 Hz.
  •  Watches with this caliber: Rolex Oysterquartz Datejust.

Rolex Caliber 5055

  • Jewels: 11.
  • Specifications: Day/date. Thermal Compensated Quartz module.
  • Power reserve: Quartz.
  • Introduced: 1977.
  • Frequency: 32,768Hz
  •  Watches with this caliber: Oysterquartz Day-Date.

Rolex Caliber 5335

  • Jewels: 23.
  • Power reserve: Quartz.
  • Introduced: Never introduced. The movement didn’t go into production because of unknown reasons. It is speculated that the movement was completed around 2000.
  •  Watches with this caliber: None.

Rolex Caliber 5355

  • Jewels: 23.
  • Specifications: Day/date. Perpetual calendar.
  • Power reserve: Quartz.
  • Introduced: Movement did not go into production. It is speculated that the movement was completed around 2000.

Rolex Caliber 9001

  • Jewels: 40.
  • Specifications: Automatic mechanical movement. Annual calendar. Ring Command Setting system. Duo-directional perpetual rotor. Paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring. Paraflex shock absorbers. Send time zone. Annual calendar. Month display.
  • Power reserve: 72 hours.
  • Introduced: 2012.
  • Frequency: 28800 BPH.
  •  Watches with this caliber: Rolex SkyDweller.

Rolex Caliber 3195

  • Jewels: 31.
  • Specifications: Automatic mechanical movement. Duo-directional perpetual rotor. Paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairpspring. Moonphase. Date display.
  • Power reserve: 48 hours.
  • Introduced: 1988.
  •  Watches with this caliber: Rolex Cellini.

Rolex Caliber 1556

  • Specifications: Automatic mechanical movement. Duo-directional perpetual rotor. Day/date.
  • Frequency: 28.800 BPH.
  •  Watches with this caliber: Rolex Cellini.

Rolex Caliber 1555

  • Jewels: 26.
  • Specifications: Sweep seconds. Automatic. Breguet hairspring with regulating screws. Day/date.
  • Power reserve: 42 hours.
  • Introduced: 1959.
  • Frequency: 18.000 BPH.
  •  Watches with this caliber: Rolex Day-Date.

Rolex Caliber 1535

  • Specifications: Date
  • Introduced: 1957.
  • Frequency: 18.000
  • Watches with this caliber: Rolex Air-King-Date, Explorer Date.

Rolex Caliber 1530

  • Jewels: 25/26.
  • Introduced: 1957.
  • Frequency: 18.000
  •  Watches with this caliber: Rolex Air-King and Submariner.

Rolex Caliber 1520

  • Jewels: 25/26.
  • Introduced: 1965.
  • Frequency: 19.800.
  •  Watches with this caliber: Rolex Air-King-Date and Explorer Date.

Rolex Caliber 1165

  • Jewels: 26.
  • Specifications: Date. Self-wind. Sweep-seconds. Progress-calendar. Shock protecting.
  • Introduced: 1965.
  • Frequency: 19.8000 BPH.
  •  Watches with this caliber: Oyster Perpetual Date.

Rolex Caliber 1160

  • Jewels: 26.
  • Specifications: Self-wind. Sweep-seconds. Shock protecting.
  • Introduced: 1964.
  • Frequency: 19.800 BPH.
  •  Watches with this caliber: Oyster Perpetual.

Rolex Caliber 1135

  • Jewels: 26.
  • Specifications:  Date. Self-wind. Sweep-second.Progress-calendar.
  • Introduced: 1955.
  • Frequency: 19.8000 BPH.
  •  Watches with this caliber: Oyster Perpetual Date.

Rolex Caliber 1130

  • Jewels: 26.
  • Specifications: Self-winding. Sweep-seconds. Shock protecting.
  • Introduced: 1955.
  • Frequency: 19.800 BPH.
  •  Watches with this caliber: Oyster Perpetual.

Rolex Caliber 1120

  • Jewels: 17/27.
  • Specifications: Self-wind. Small seconds. Shock protecting.
  • Introduced: 1953.
  • Frequency: 19.800 BPH.
  •  Watches with this caliber: Oyster Perpetual.

Rolex Caliber 1080

  • Jewels: 25.
  • Specifications: Antimagnetic. Movement for Milgauss. Self-wind. Sweep-seconds. Shock protecting.
  • Introduced: 1955.
  • Frequency: 18.800 BPH.
  •  Watches with this caliber: Milgauss.

Rolex Caliber 1065

  • Jewels: 25.
  • Specifications: Date. Self-wind. Sweep-seconds. Instant-calendar. Shock protecting.
  • Introduced: 1955.
  • Frequency: 18.000 BPH.
  • Watches with this caliber: Oyster Perpetual Date.

Rolex Caliber 1055

  • Jewels: 25.
  • Specifications: Day/date. Self wind, Sweep-seconds. Shock protecting.
  • Introduced: 1954.
  • Frequency: 18.000
  • Watches with this caliber: Day-Date.

Rolex Caliber 1040

  • Jewels: 25.
  • Specifications: Tru-beat. Self-wind. jumping sweep-seconds. Shock protecting.
  • Introduced: 1954.
  • Frequency: 18.8000 BPH.
  • Watches with this caliber: Tru-Beat.

Rolex Caliber 1036

  • Jewels: 25.
  • Specifications: Date. GMT. First movement able to show two time zones simultaneously. Self-wind. Sweep-seconds. Instant-calendar.
  • Introduced: 1954.
  • Frequency: 18.800 BPH.
  • Watches with this caliber: Rolex GMT-Master and Oyster Perpetual Date.

Rolex Caliber 1035

  • Jewels: 25.
  • Specifications: Self-winding. Sweep-seconds. Shock protecting. Progressive calendar.
  • Introduced: 1957.
  • Frequency: 18.000 BPH.
  •  Watches with this caliber: Oyster Perpetual Date.

Rolex Caliber 1030

  • Jewels: 17/25.
  • Specifications: The first in-house complete calibre design of Rolex. Certified Chronometer.
  • Introduced: 1950.
  • Frequency: 18.000 BPH.
  •  Watches with this caliber: Rolex Oyster Perpetual,  Submariner, and Explorer.

Rolex Caliber 1060

  • Frequency: 18.000 BPH.
  •  Watches with this caliber: Deep Sea Special.

Rolex Caliber 780

  • Jewels: 18.
  • Specifications: Day/date. Moon phase. Chronograph. Self-wind. Calendar-
  • Introduced: 1950.
  • Frequency: 18.000 BPH.
  •  Watches with this caliber: Rolex 6062.

Rolex Caliber 775

  • Jewels: 18.
  • Introduced: 1950.
  • Frequency: 18.000 BPH.
  •  Watches with this caliber: Explorer/pre-explorer.

Rolex Caliber 765

  • Jewels: 18.
  • Specifications: Self-wind. Sweep-seconds. Calendar.
  • Introduced: 1950.
  • Frequency: 18.000 BPH.
  •  Watches with this caliber: Date.

Rolex Caliber 745

  • Jewels: N/A.
  • Specifications: Self-wind. Sweep-seconds. Calendar.
  • Introduced: 1952.
  • Frequency: 18.000 BPH.
  •  Watches with this caliber: Date.

Rolex Caliber 740

  • Jewels: 18.
  • Specifications: Used in the Rolex Datejust. The first automatic date function in a wristwatch.
  • Introduced: 1945.
  • Frequency: 18.000 BPH.
  •  Watches with this caliber: Rolex Datejust.

Rolex Caliber 730

  • Jewels: 18.
  • Specifications: Self-wind. Chronometer. Sweep-seconds. Shock protecting.
  • Introduced: 1945.
  • Frequency: 18.000 BPH.
  •  Watches with this caliber: Rolex Bubble back.

Rolex Caliber 720

  • Jewels: 18.
  • Specifications: Self-wind. Chronometer. Small seconds. Shock protecting.
  • Introduced: 1940.
  • Frequency: 18.000 BPH.
  •  Watches with this caliber: Oyster Perpetual.

Rolex Caliber 645

  • Jewels: 18.
  • Specifications: Self-wind. Sweep-seconds. Shock protecting.
  • Introduced: 1950.
  • Frequency: 18.000 BPH.
  • Watches with this caliber: Oyster Perpetual.

Rolex Caliber 635

  • Jewels: 17.
  • Specifications: Self-winding. Small seconds. Shock protecting.
  • Introduced: 1950.
  • Frequency: 18.000 BPH.
  • Power reserve: 41 hours.

Rolex Caliber 630

  • Jewels: 18.
  • Specifications: Self-wind. Sweep-seconds.
  • Introduced: 1937.
  • Frequency: 18.000 BPH.
  •  Watches with this caliber: Rolex Bubble Back.

Rolex Caliber 620

  • Jewels: 18.
  • Specifications: The first movement featuring an automatic rotor winding mechanism upon its release. This movement came to introduce the “Perpetual” name which is used still to this day.
  • Introduced: 1931.
  • Frequency: 18.000 BPH.
  • Watches with this caliber: Rolex Bubble Back.

Rolex Caliber 530

  • Frequency: 18.000 BPH.
  • Jewels: 17.
  • Specifications: Self-wind. Sweep-second.
  • Introduced: 1936.
  • Watches with this caliber: Rolex Bubble Back.

Rolex Caliber 520

  • Jewels: 18.
  • Specifications: Self-wind. Small seconds.
  • Introduced: 1936.
  • Frequency: 18.000 BPH.

Rolex Caliber 420

  • Jewels: 18.
  • Specifications: Self-wind. Small seconds.
  • Introduced: 1941.
  • Frequency: 18.000 BPH.

Rolex Caliber 1066

  • Jewels: 25.
  • Specifications: Self-wind. Sweep-seconds. Shock protecting. Instant-calendar. GMT hand. Used in the first version of the GMT-Master.
Category: Rolex movement

Watch hacking, otherwise referred to as the second hand halt mechanism or seconds stop function, is a feature that allows the watch wearer to stop the movement at will. This is normally accomplished by pulling the crown out to its time-setting position, causing the hacking lever to stop the balance wheel and gear train of the watch. Whereas an automatic watch will continue to run whether or not the crown is pulled, a watch with the hacking feature will have the seconds hand and movement stop completely.

Category: Rolex movement

Higher grade watches have traditionally used a jeweled movements, which means that jewels (originally natural ruby, now synthetic ruby) were actually used in the movement. These jewels are functional – they are used as the bearings for the wheel trains and in high wear parts such as the escape lever and impulse jewel.

Category: Rolex movement

Amplitude is how big of a swing (degrees of rotation) the balance wheel moves per oscillation. Low amplitude generally means a larger problem with the power transmission causing less than needed energy to be delivered to the escapement.

Category: Rolex movement

Rolex parts

Fluted bezel
The fluted Rolex bezel is craft from solid gold.

Smooth bezel
The smooth bezel is craft from stainless steel, gold (yellow, white, or rose), or platinum.
Depending on the specific watch and year of production, smooth bezels can range from flat to domed

Engine-turned bezel
The Engine-turned bezel  is manufactured in a number of subtle design variations and metal options throughout the years.

Gem-Set bezel
The Gem-Set bezel typically fitted with diamonds, Rolex’s gem-set bezel has also been manufactured with other precious stones, such as the rainbow-colored sapphires

Texture bezel
Textured bezels are a category of bezels that includes a large number of atypical designs. Most commonly craft from gold, textured bezels often have their textures mirrored on the bracelets of their accompanying watches, and most frequently appear on limited, ornate iterations, or those that were manufactured as a special order. Example are Morellis,Bark,Florentine,Pyramid and Linen.

Ring Command bezel
The Ring Command bezel has a direct link between the outer bezel of the watch and the intricate movement within. Available as either a fluted bezel on the Sky-Dweller, or as a Professional bezel on the Yacht-Master II,

12 point bezel
The 12 point bezel has 12 diamonds, one at each hour marker.

24 diamonds bezel
24 diamonds bezel is a smooth bezel with 12 big diamonds and 12 smaller off set diamonds

Cartouche bezel
The cartouche bezel is only 18k with “Rolex” printed at the 6 position.

Rotating bezel
The Rotating bezel is able to turn to facilitate some sort of timing feature found on GMT, Submariner, turn-o-graph, yachtmaster

Pyramid bezel
Pyramid bezel has 2 small pyramids then 2 diamonds repeated all around the bezel.

Tachymeter bezel
Tachymeter bezel has a scale used to indicate “units per hour” on Daytona models.

Turn-o-graph
Turn-o-graph bezel is a rotatable, timing bezel on “thunderbird” model DateJust.

Category: Rolex parts
  • Oyster bracelet –  introduced in the late 1930s
  • Jubilee bracelet  – introduced in 1945
  • President bracelet – introduced in 1956
  • Pearlmaster bracelet – introduced in 1992

Exclusive bracelets

  • Integral bracelet
  • Brick bracelet

Local made bracelets – Are made in a other country to avoid import.

  • Coffee-bean bracelet – made for a period of time some bracelet where made in the USA
  • Argentinian bracelet – made for a period of time, some president bracelet were made in Argentina with stylistic changes to the buckle
  • Hecho in Mexico bracelet – made for a period of time, some president bracelets were made in Mexico and stamped as such
Category: Rolex parts

There are two types of crystals used by Rolex.

  • Acrylic –  Rolex used Acrylic to the 70’s / 80’s depending on the model, these crystals can scratch but are easy to polish or replace.
  • Sapphire – Rolex’s first sapphire crystal appeared  in the  70’s for some models, step by step all models did get Sapphire crystals. These crystals are scratch resistant and are difficult to be scratched by any material except diamond and minerals with a hardness rating of 10.
Category: Rolex parts

Rolex reference numbers and codes

Since the mid 80s there is among others a 3-digit code on the certificate. This code shows to which authorized dealer and therefore in which country the watch was initialy sold in.

Exception: USA watches.

010 – Switzerland

012 – Switzerland

013 – Switzerland

014 – Switzerland

015 – Switzerland

017 – Switzerland

021 – Switzerland

022 – Switzerland

023 – Switzerland

024 – Switzerland

025 – Switzerland

026 – Switzerland

027 – Switzerland

028 – Switzerland

031 – Switzerland

032 – Switzerland

033 – Switzerland

036 – Liechtenstein

037 – Switzerland

039 – Switzerland

044 – Switzerland

045 – Switzerland

061 – Switzerland

062 – Switzerland

100 – Germany

110 – France

112 – France

113 – France

114 – France

119 – France (COMEX)

120 – Austria

121 – Austria

122 – Austria

123 – Austria

124 – Austria

125 – Austria

126 – Austria

127 – Austria

128 – Austria

130 – Belgium/Luxemburg

133 – Netherlands

134 – Netherlands

135 – Netherlands

136 – Netherlands

137 – Netherlands

138 – Netherlands

150 – Spain

160 – Great Britain/Ireland

170 – Italy

181 – Italy

185 – Italy

189 – Italy

200 – Greece

201 – Malta

202 – Turkey

204 – Italy

205 – Cyprus

207 – Corfu

208 – Greece

210 – Portugal

212 – Portugal

213 – Portugal

215 – Portugal

216 – Portugal

217 – Portugal

218 – Portugal

226 – Denmark

228 – Denmark

231 – Denmark

233 – Denmark

235 – Denmark

236 – Finland

237 – Iceland

241 – Norway

242 – Norway

243 – Norway

246 – Norway

253 – Norway

262 – Sweden

265 – Sweden

267 – Sweden

268 – Sweden

270 – Sweden

271 – Sweden

272 – Sweden

273 – Sweden

283 – Finland

284 – Norway

286 – Finland

291 – Finland

296 – Finland

298 – Finland

301 – Hungary

311 – Poland

312 – Poland

317 – Bulgaria

318 – Slovakia

320 – Czech Republic

321 – Czech Republic

322 – Hungary

323 – Slovenia

325 – Serbia Montenegro

330 – Russia

337 – Azerbaijan

381 – Turkey

385 – Turkey

400 – Hong Kong

402 – Guam

408 – Seoul

410 – Japan

413 – Korea

430 – Singapore/Brunai/Indonesia

431 – Malaysia/Thailand

440 – Taiwan

500 – India

501 – India

507 – India

505 – Pakistan

513 – Nepal

514 – Bangladesh

516 – Nepal

522 – Lebanon

526 – Bahrain

527 – Middle East

529 – Saudi Arabia

531 – Saudi Arabia

532 – Saudi Arabia

533 – Kuwait

535 – Katar

536 – Abu Dhabi

537 – Dubai

538 – Oman

539 – Oman

542 – Iran

548 – Israel

551 – Yemen

565 – India

573 – India

578 – India

579 – India

581 – Pakistan

595 – India

601 – Morocco

602 – Morocco

605 – Tunisia

608 – Tunisia

612 – Egypt

634 – Congo

655 – Mauritius

668 – Kenya

680 – South Afrika

700 – Canada

710 – USA

720 – Mexico

722 – Mexico

733 – Honduras

737 – Costa Rica

741 – Bahamas

742 – Bermuda

752 – Jamaica

754 – Cuba

756 – Dominican Republic

757 – Caribbean Islands

758 – Virgin Islands

759 – Turks Islands

760 – Barbados

761 – Netherlands Antilles/Aruba

762 – Aruba

764 – Guadeloupe

765 – Antigua

766 – Saint Martin

767 – Cayman Islands

768 – Panama

770 – Venezuela

780 – Brazil

781 – Chile

786 – Bolivia

790 – Argentina

801 – China

802 – China

803 – China

810 – Australia/New Zealand

818 – Philippines

828 – Taiwan

838 – China

842 – New Zealand

871 – Hawaii

872 – DFS Group Hong Kong

873 – Guam

874 – Hong Kong

875 – Venezuela

879 – Cambodia

888 – Hong Kong

900 – Japan

902 – AAFES, Germany

905 – AFSOUTH, Italy

906 – Natex Retail, German NATO Airbase

907 – Rheindalen, German NATO Headquarterf

Rolex paper guarantee from USA with “C OWCE” printed on the back

The code identifies the date when the watch was shipped from Rolex USA to the dealer. How to translate it? Use this table:

Letter Translation
R 1
O 2
L 3
E 4
X 5
W 6
A 7
T 8
C 9
H 0

Let’s try with “C OWCE” printed on the guarantee above. It means “9 2694” that is “September 26 ’94”. Simple as that, right?

Here is another example: “A ROTC” means: “7 1289” that is “July 12 ’89”.

Only Rolex watches sold in the USA could have some special codes printed on the warranty paper. What do these codes mean? What are they for?On the front of a Rolex USA guarantee you can find an “Style no.”  alphanumeric code made of 14 (or 9) digits.

Code: R16520A50B7839, what does it mean?

This code identifies:
1.Brand
2.Reference
3.Material used for the case
4.Colour and type of dial
5.Type of bracelet/strap etc.
6.Bracelet/strap reference

Code Explanation
R Rolex
16520 Reference number of Daytona (Zenith Calibre)
A Stainless steeel
50 White dial
B Bracelet
7839 Bracelet ref. 78390

Let’s try to understand the rule:

(L) NNNNN(N) X NX (L XXNN)
Brand
CODE EXPLANATION
(L)

One letter:

R = Rolex
T = Tudor

This letter is missing when the Model reference is 6 digits long.

Model reference
CODE EXPLANATION
NNNNN(N) Reference code of the watch: five or six numbers, e.g. 16528, 116520 etc.
Material used for the case
CODE EXPLANATION
X

One letter or number:

A = Stainless steel (from French acier)
3 = Gold and steel
4 = Stainless steel and white gold
8 = Yellow gold
9 = White gold
Etc.

Colour and type of the dial
CODE EXPLANATION
NX

Two numbers or one number and one letter:

0U = Black Mother of Pearl with diamonds
0W = Black Mother of Pearl Roman
10 = Silver
18 = Silver Tapestry
20 = Champagne
28 = Champagne Patestry
30 = Black
3H = Onyx Arabic with 2 diamonds
50 = White
51 = White Roman
52 = Ivory Pyramide Roman
57 = White Arabic
83 = Rose Roman
8X = Onyx Serti
9K = White Mother Pearl Arabic
9R = Mother Pearl Roman
etc.

Type of bracelet/strap
CODE EXPLANATION
(L)

One letter:

B = Bracelet
S = Strap

When the bracelet is integrated (like Oysterquartz) this code is missing.

Bracelet/strap reference
CODE EXPLANATION
(XXNN) Four numbers or two letters and two numbers, is the reference code without the last digit, e.g.:
7839 = 78390
7876 = 78760
9315 = 93150
etc.When the bracelet is integrated (like Oysterquartz) this code is missing.

 

Air-King
4365, 4925, 5500, 5501, 5506, 5520, 6500, 6552, 7784, 14000,14000M, 14010, 14010M, 114200, 114210, 114234, 116900

Air-King-Date
5700, 5701

Bubble Back
1858, 2704, 2725, 2760, 2764, 2768, 2940, 3042, 3064, 3065, 3130,3131, 3133, 3134, 3135, 3159, 3353, 3372, 3458, 3496, 3536, 3548,3595, 3599, 3696, 3716, 3772, 3794, 4362, 4392, 4467, 4643, 4777,4846, 4857, 4984, 4961, 5006, 5009, 5010, 5011, 5015, 5018, 5028,5029, 5050, 5054, 5055, 5084, 5284, 6011, 6015, 6022, 6029, 6050,6075, 6084, 6085, 6092, 6098, 6102, 6105, 6106, 6108, 6206, 6298,6334, 6352

Datejust
1600, 1601, 1603, 1607, 1625, 1630, 6305, 6518, 6604, 6605, 6827,16013, 16014, 16018, 16030, 16078, 16200, 16203, 16220, 16233,16234, 16238, 16248, 16263, 16364, 116135, 116138, 116139,116185, 116188, 116189, 116199, 116200, 116201, 116203, 116208,116231, 116233, 116234, 116238, 116243, 116244, 116261, 116263,116264, 116285, 126203, 126231, 126233, 128281, 126283

Datejust 39 mm Pearlmaster
86285, 86289, 86348, 86349, 86405, 86409,

Datejust II
116300, 116333, 116334

Datejust 41
126300, 126301, 126303, 126331, 126333, 126334

Datejust Medium
6824, 6827, 68158, 68159, 68238, 68240, 68243, 68246, 68248,68258, 68266, 68268, 68273, 68274, 68278, 68279, 68286, 68288,68289, 77080, 77014, 77438, 77518, 78240, 78243, 78246, 78248,78266, 78273, 78274, 78278, 78279, 78286, 78288, 81158, 81159,81208, 81209, 81285, 81298, 81299, 81308, 81318, 81319, 81338,81339, 81348, 81349, 178158, 178159, 178238, 178239, 178240,178241, 178243, 178245, 178246, 178248, 178269, 178271, 178274,178275, 178278, 178279, 178286, 178288, 178313, 178341, 178343,178344, 178383, 178384, 278245, 278285, 278288, 278289

Day Date
1802, 1803, 1804, 1806, 1807, 1808, 1809, 1810, 1811, 1812, 1813,1814, 1815, 1831, 6511, 6611, 18026, 18028, 18029, 18038, 18039,18046,18049, 18078, 18079, 18206, 18208, 18238, 18239, 18248,18249, 18296, 18308, 18338, 18346, 18348, 18349, 18366, 18368,18378, 18388, 18389, 18946, 18948, 18956, 18958, 118135, 118138,118139, 118205, 118206, 118208, 118209, 118235, 118238, 118239,118296, 118338, 118339, 118346, 118348, 118366, 118388, 118389,118395, 118398, 118399

Day Date II
218206, 218235, 218238, 218239, 218345, 218348, 218349, 216396,218398, 218399

Day Date 40 mm
228206, 228235, 228238, 228239, 228348, 228349, 228396, 228398

Daytona
6239, 6240, 6241, 6239, 62,40, 6241, 6262, 6263, 6264, 6265, 6240,6241, 16518, 16519, 16520, 16523, 16528, 16568, 116500, 116503,116505, 116506, 116509, 116515, 116518, 116519, 116520, 116523,116528, 116568, 116576, 116589, 116595, 116598, 116599

Explorer
1016, 1038, 5500, 5501, 5504, 6098, 6150, 6298, 6305, 6350, 6610,14270, 114270, 214270

Explorer II
1655, 16550, 16570, 216570

GMT-Master
1675, 6542, 16700, 16713, 16750, 16753, 16758

GMT-Master II
16710, 16713, 16718, 16760, 116710, 116713, 116718, 1167119, 116758,116759, 126710, 126711, 126715

Milgauss
1019, 6541, 116400

Oyster Perpetual
1002, 1004, 1005, 1006, 1007, 1008, 1010, 1014, 1018, 1023, 1024,1025, 1030, 1038, 1500, 1501, 1565, 5500, 6085, 6103, 6177, 6202,6284, 6518, 6532, 6546, 6548, 6549, 6551, 6552, 6556, 6564, 6565,6567, 6569, 6580, 6582, 6584, 6590, 6605, 6623, 6634, 65718, 14203,14203M, 14208, 14208M, 14233, 14238, 114300, 116000, 116034,177200,177210, 177234

Oyster Perpetual Date
1500, 1501, 1503, 1505, 1530, 1550, 1560, 1603, 1625, 5075, 6075,6335, 6518, 6534, 6605, 6627, 15000, 15010, 15037, 15038, 15053,15200, 15203, 15210, 15223, 15238, 15505, 115200, 115210, 115234

Oyster Perpetual Lady
6718, 6719, 6723, 6724, 67180, 67183, 67188, 67193, 67194, 67197,67198, 67230, 67233, 67243, 76030, 76080, 76094, 76180, 76183,76188, 76193, 76198, 76243, 77518, 176200, 176210, 176234

Oyster Perpetual Lady Date
6516, 6517, 6519, 6916, 6917, 6919, 69160, 69163, 69173,69190, 69240, 79160, 79190, 79240

Oyster Perpetual Lady Datejust
6916, 6917, 6927, 69068, 69069, 69078, 69079, 69088, 69089,69126, 69128, 69136, 69138, 69139, 69158, 69159, 69163, 69166,69168, 69173, 69174, 69178, 69179, 68188, 69198, 69238, 69258,69268, 69278, 69279, 69288, 69298, 69299, 69308, 69318, 69359,79068, 79078, 79079, 79088, 79089, 79126, 79136, 79138, 79158,79159, 79163, 79166, 79168, 79173, 79174, 79178, 79179, 79238,79288, 80285, 80298, 80299, 80309, 80315, 80318,80319, 80328,80329, 80359, 179136, 179138, 179158, 179159, 179160, 179161,179165, 179166, 179168, 179171, 179173, 179175, 179178, 179179,179239, 179298, 179313, 179368, 179459, 279135, 279136, 279138,279160, 279161, 279163, 279165, 279166, 279171, 279173, 279174,279175, 279178, 279381, 279383, 279384

Oysterquartz Datejust
17000, 17013, 17014

Oysterquartz Day-Date
19018, 19019, 19028, 19048, 19049, 19149

Sea-Dweller/Deepsea
1665, 16600, 16660, 116600, 116660, 126600, 126660

Submariner
5508, 5512, 5513, 5514, 5517, 6200, 6204, 6205, 6536, 6538, 6538A,14060, 14060M, 114060

Submariner Date
1680, 16800, 168000, 16610, 16610LV, 16613, 16618, 16803, 16808,116610, 116613, 116618, 116619

Turn-O-Graph
1625, 6202, 6309, 6609, 16250, 16253, 16268, 16263, 16264, 116261,116263, 116264

Yacht Master
16622, 16623, 16628, 68623, 68628, 69623, 69628, 168622, 168623,168628, 169622, 169623, 169628, 116621, 116622, 116655, 268622,268655

Yacht Master II
116680, 116681, 116688, 116689

Sky-Dweller
326135, 326138, 326139, 326933, 326934, 326935, 326938, 326939,

A         1976
B         1977
C         1978
D         1979
E         1980
F         1981
G        1982
H        1983
I          1984
J          1985
K         1986
L         1987
M        1988
O        1990
P         1991
Q        1992
R         1993
S         1994
T – W 1995
V         1996
Z         1997
Z – W  1998
X         1999
AB      2000
DE      2001
DT      2002
AD      2003
CL       2004
MA     2005
OP      2006
EO      2007
PJ       2008
LT       2009
RS       2010
CP       2011

Random (3-digit)       2011 – Till present day

The number behind the letter(s) seems to be the month when the clasp was produced.

So CL2 would be February 2004

If there is an “S” in front of the code then your clasp was changed during a service.

 

YEAR
(Year of Production)
SERIAL NUMBER
(Serial number of your Rolex)
2018 Random
2017 Random
2016 Random
2015 Random
2014 Random
2013 Random
2012 Random
2011 Random
2010 G
2009 V
2008 M OR V
2007 M OR Z
2006 D OR Z
2005 D
2005 F
2004 F
2003 F
2002 Y
2001 K OR Y
2000 K,000,001
2000 P,000,001
1999 A,000,001
1998 U,932,144
1997 U,000,001
1996 T,000,001
1995 W,000,001
1994 S,860,880
1993 S,000,001
1992 C,000,001
1991 N,000,001
1991 X,000,001
1990 E,000,001
1989 L,980,000
1988 R,598,200
1987 R,000,001
1987 9,400,000
1986 8,900,000
1985 8,614,000
1984 8,070,022
1983 7,400,000
1982 7,100,000
1981 6,520,870
1980 6,434,000
1979 5,737,030
1978 5,000,000
1977 5,008,000
1976 4,115,299
1975 3,862,196
1974 3,567,927
1973 3,200,268
1972 2,890,459
1971 2,589,295
1970 2,241,882
1969 1,900,000
1968 1,752,000
1967 1,538,435
1966 1,200,000
1965 1,100,000
1964 1,008,889
1963 824,000
1962 744,000
1961 643,153
1960 516,000
1959 399,453
1958 328,000
1957 224,000
1956 133,061
1955 97,000
1954 23,000
1953 855,726
1952 726,639
1951 709,249
1950
1949
1948 628,840
1947 529,163
1946 367,946
1945 302,459
1944 269,561
1943 230,878
1942 143,509
1941 106,047
1940 99,775
1939 71,224
1938 43,739
1937 40,920
1936 36,856
1935 34,336
1934 30,823
1933 29,562
1932 29,132
1931
1930 23,186
1929
1928 23,969
1927 20,190
1926 00,001

 

Rolex engraves or assigns a 4-6 digit model number to every watch type it produces. This number can be found engraved between the lugs on the side of the case above 12 o’clock. The model number can indicate the model type, bezel, and material of your watch. For example, the reference number 16234 can be broken out into three section, which is 162 | 3 | 4. The first, 162, indicates that this watch is a Datejust. The second, 3, indicates that the bezel is fluted. The third, 4, indicates that the watch material is Stainless w/ 18k White Gold.

ROLEX TYPE
Submariner (no date) 55 & 140
Submariner 16, 166 & 168
Sea Dweller 16 & 166
GMT Master 16, 65, 167
GMT Master II 167, 1167
Day-Date (President) 65, 66, 18, 180, 182 & 183
Datejust 16 & 162
Daytona Manual Wind 62
Daytona Cosmograph 165, 1165
Explorer II 165
Oyster Perpetual 10, 140, 142
Airking 55 & 140
Date 15 & 150
OysterquartzDatejust 170
Oysterquartz Day-Date 190
Yachtmaster 166, 686 & 696
Midsize Oyster Perp DJ 68, 682
Ladies Oyster Perpetual 67, 671, 672
Ladies Date 65, 69, 691 & 692
Ladies Datejust 65, 69, 691 & 692
BEZEL
Polished 0
Engine Turned 1
Engine Turned 2
Fluted 3
Hand-Crafted 4
Pyramid 5
Rotating Bezel 6
MATERIAL
Stainless 0
Yellow Gold Filled 1
White Gold Filled 2
Stainless & Yellow Gold 3
Stainless w/ 18k White Gold 4
Gold Shell 5
Platinum 6
14k Yellow Gold 7
18k Yellow Gold 8

 

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